By Philip Ronney May 2011

I have always been impressed by modelers who are willing to take the time and effort to cut out numbers and letters out of tissue that add the finishing touches to beautiful models. But I just don’t seem to have the patience and meticulous muscle coordination to do that kind of art work so I have developed my own technique for making identifying AMA numbers and ID blocks for my planes using 8 1/ 2 x 11 decal blanks.     Note the photo on the right of my Swayback.   I used a combination of  letters, numbers and photos on this plane.  All the art work was printed on decal sheets and transferred to the plane.  I have been asked by many people how I do it so decided to take some time and describe my methods.

There are many programs available for computers that make it easy to form your own art work and lettering on decal sheets that can be transferred to models. Most of us have access to Microsoft word which works beautifully for numbers and lettering.  I also use Adobe Photo Shop because as a photographer I have learned to use this program to adjust and print photographs. By using a photo processing program like Photoshop or Lite room you can also transfer all kinds of art work to your model including photographs, drawings, weird shapes and or course letters and numbers.

I’m going to start by describing how I use Microsoft word to form letters and numbers first because I believe most of us have access to a PC that has a basic Microsoft word program and even those with Apple computers probably have used Microsoft word at one time or another. I’ll describe the steps in Microsoft word first then talk about how to transfer the work to the blank decal sheets and then to your model.

If you already know how to make up letters and numbers on a computer you can skip this part and go to part two where I describe my system for transferring your graphics to decal blanks and then applying them to you model.

Start by opening Microsoft word on a blank 81/2x11 letter size page. Make sure the rulers at the top and side show so that you can accurately determine and configure the size and length of your work. To show the rulers go to the top of the Microsoft word window and click "view." Make sure the box next to "ruler" is checked. At the same time make sure you are in "print" layout.

Let’s assume you want to make a decal with your AMA number for the wing. You have determined you would like, red, 1 ½ inch letters that extend 7 inches. You have decided you want simple block letters and have chosen "Arial" has your font.

AMA 65464

Start by typing your AMA number near the top of the page. Highlight the number by left clicking and dragging your mouse over the numbers or letters you’ve typed.  Now right click on the highlighted numbers and note the drop down menu that appears.  Your drop down "font" menu can also be accessed by clicking on "format," then "font." The drop down menu will give you several options.  First, pick your font. The upper left corner of "font" menu gives you a long list of various fonts you can use.  It’s fun to experiment with different fonts to see which you like best. For this demonstration I picked "Arial." Next to "font" is "font style." Try the various options to see what appeals to you. Next on the right is the "font size." You can scroll down the sizes from 8 through 72 or left click and highlight the size in the box above the scroll down and type in your own size. For instance typing in 125 will make the letters about  1 ½ inches tall. In order to get the letters 7 inches long, go to the top of the "font" menu and use "Character spacing," to establish the length of your decal spacing between letters. By using the "scale" window, type in the percentage of decrease or increase you need to give you the length.  Click "OK" when you’ve got it where you want it.  Now comes the fun part.  Pick a color. Highlight your text or number and go back to the "font" menu. About half way down and to the left notice the box marked "color." Click on the down arrow next to the word "color." Pick any of the colors showing or choose "more colors" below the colors pallet. Remember to leave your text or number highlighted. Pick your color and click "OK."  Ah ah, were not done yet! Note the box that says "font style." You may have several more options depending on the font you picked including regular, italic, bold and bold italic. Try them by again highlighting your text or numbers and clicking "OK," when you’ve made a choice.

At this point you should have a graphic with numbers and letters. This is a simple method for creating lettering and numbers for your model using Microsoft Word.

Now for the more advanced method.  At the top of the Microsoft window left click on "View," then "tool bar." Make sure the following choices are checked.  "standard," " formatting," "drawing,"  "picture" and "word art."  Now let’s have some fun.

At the bottom of the Microsoft word window note the words "AutoShapes." Right click and scroll to the right to the diagonally shaped Blue "A" When you scroll over the blue capitol "A,"  it should say "insert word art." Left click on the blue "A" and reveal the "word art gallery."  In the Word art Gallery try choosing the square that is second from the left in the second row.  Left click on the highlighted square and click "OK," at the bottom of the menu.   You will find yourself in a window that says "Edit word art text." Choose your font and text size. For practice, choose "Arial Bold,’ for the font and 36 as a text size. Also check "Bold," and "Italic." (If desired) the words, "Your Text here" will appear in the window. Start by highlighting those words and typing in your AMA number.

You will see an outline of your choice. Now go to the bottom of the page next to "Auto shapes" and click on the paint bucket. Fill in what ever color peaks your fancy. I chose red. Next go to the paint brush and chose your line color. The black outline can be changed to the same color as the letters a different color. If you would like to try a drop shadow, highlight your graphic again and note that the two diagonally shaped boxes separated by a diagonal line that is highlighted. You can change the color of the shadow by going to the shapes at the bottom of the page and clicking on the extreme right green box. When your graphic is highlighted again it will give a small drop down menu with a variety of colors.

(For this sample I used Arial Bold Italic and to get the "Shadow effect" I clicked on the green box in "Auto Shapes" to activate the "shadow style."

Try several and pick out your favorite. Using text art in Microsoft word gives you a whole variety of shapes, sizes and methods to make decals that work for you. Don’t hesitate to experiment and try new ideas. Remember if something doesn’t work you can always go to the top of the page and click on the curved arrow and that will take you back as many steps as necessary to fix stuff that didn’t quite work.

 I have tried to describe how you can use Microsoft Word to make a lettered or numbered sheet that can be transferred to a decal page. Now I’ll try to describe how I make the decals.

I use a decal product called "Experts Choice Decal." It is distributed by Bare-Metal Foil Co. located in Farmington, MI. Their web address is http://www.Bare-Metal.com. Their phone is (248) 476 3406. The decal blanks come in several packaged forms. I like to purchase the 8 ½ x 11 three sheet packages although you can buy them as single sheets. There are several types to choose from. The "Clear Decal Film," item No. 123, will produce "see-through" decals on a clear backing. These work well on a white or none colored surface. The "White Decal film," item No. 120, can be used on colored surfaces. They produce decals with a white background. I have found both works equally well.  I also recommend ordering three or four packages of each. That cuts down shipping costs.  My Hobby shop, Smith Bros, in Reseda carries them but they’re more expensive in the Hobby shop so I buy them in larger quantities directly from Bare Metal. You can order them on line or by phone.

There are other companies that make decal blanks but so far I have had the best success with the "Experts-Choice" decal blanks from Bare Metal Foil co.

They also make blanks suitable for Laser printers. I have not done enough work with laser printers to recommend them here although they do afford some options not available with Ink Jet printers.

I use an Epson Ink jet printer to print out the decals but any Ink Jet printer will probably work. My Epson RX595 was purchased for less then $100.00 and works fine. The major cost of using an Ink Jet printer is the Ink. By the time you have replaced the Ink Jet cartridges twice you can buy a new printer. Some people get their cartridges re-filled or buy non Epson replacement cartridges but I am willing to use the more expensive original equipment Epson cartridges because they give me constantly good color renditions.

After I have created the Decal I want I’m ready to print them. If this is your first time I recommend doing some testing with smaller sheets before committing to the larger 8 1/2 x 11 full sheets. I like to cut the blanks into four equal sections. So you now have four 5 ½ x 4 ¼ pieces for testing. Most printers have the ability to accommodate smaller sizes but you may have to experiment with your printer to make sure it set up correctly.

Before I print a decal on the more expansive decal blanks I like to try my creation on regular white printing paper.

Another option is to use Glossy Printing paper to check size and color of your decal. I buy 8 ½ x 11 Glossy Inkjet Photo Paper from "Costco" under the name of "Kirkland Professional Glossy Ink jet Photo Paper." They come in 150 sheet boxes. Much cheaper then the decal blanks and they are also are a good way to try your decals for size, color and shape before committing to the printer. Since you’ll be using the "photo glossy" setting on your Ink jet printer this will give you a starting point for deciding which is the best setting on your printer for decals.

Before you’re ready to print out your decals I have one more suggestion. Try and put as many decals as you can on each decal blank page. Since each 8 ½ x 11 sheet is about $2.50 a piece it’s a good idea to get as much material on each page as possible. Of course it also works to cut the blanks into smaller sizes for smaller decals.

My Epson Ink Jet printer has a variety of settings designed to handle various types of paper. For instance, I use the "plain white/bright White Paper" for general use but for decals I have used successfully several settings. I recommend starting with the "Ultra Premium Photo Paper Glossy" setting. It is listed under "Paper options" in the "Main Tab." Every printer has a different way of adjusting the way the ink prints on specific papers and each printer is different. You’re going to have to experiment with your individual printer that’s why I recommend starting with standard Inkjet photo paper and then moving to the more expensive Decal blanks. Use your smaller quarter size blank sheets before moving to the 81/2 x 11 sheets. You may get lucky and figure out the right setting quickly but it more likely you’ll use 6 or seven small pieces before coming up with the right setting.   Once you established the correct settings for your printer save them or write them down so you won't have to repeat the trial and error process again. 

I always use the "Best Photo" setting because I think it does a better job of printing all the details and color quality in my decal creations. This is especially true if you’re trying to put a color photograph on your plane. My Ink Jet Printer has a "Custom Setting" window under the "Advanced" tab and allows for more accurate and precise color rendition reproductions.

After testing, trail and error and after expressing a lot of repressed anger that you weren’t aware you had locked up your psyche you’re ready to print out your decals.

Assuming the page comes out the way you want it to look. The decal is bright, clear, and un-smudged and the right size you’re ready for the next step.

The next step is to smile, pat your self on the back and have a beer. This step is required and you deserve it.

Before trying to "fix" the decal for transferring let it sit for several hours so the Ink Jet has a chance to dry completely.

Remember, this is a water soluble Ink jet print and although some Ink Jet printer manufactures claim their Ink Jet prints are water resistant, I’m not sure that’s completely accurate. My Ink jet prints would simply wash away if subjected to water before "fixing" them. Since you’re going to be submersing your finished decal into water before sliding and transferring them your plane, you have to do something to seal the print onto the decal.

I use the following system.  I start by laying the finished decal sheet on a clean, dust free surface. I have been using a product called "Deft, Clear Wood Finish Gloss."  It is a clear lacquer spray that is designed for finishing and restoring furniture. It’s available at most paint and hardware stores. I get mine at my local Orchard Supply Hardware Store. It comes in 12 oz. spray cans.

I start by "misting" the material over the decal. By that I mean a very, very thin light coat is applied from the can onto the surface. If you spray the material on the decal to heavily for the first several coats it will leach through the decal and the ink will run. So by misting the first two coats you allow the spray to protect the decal ink without ruining it.

After the first two coats you can begin increasing the amount material sprayed on the decal. By the fourth coat you can actually spray it on rather heavily so you can see the decal start to shine into a glossy finish. It’s important to get enough spray onto the decal so it will transfer easily.

This product dries very quickly but I usually touch and feel the surface between coats to make sure it’s dry before spraying the next coat.

After the final coat, let the decal dry about four hours to make sure it’s really dry. You are now ready for transfer.

Cut out the decal and soak it in a pan of water. Regular tap water seems to be just fine. Water temperature is not critical but the instructions on the package call for luke warm. It doesn’t usually take long for the decal to come loose from the backing. Usually 30 seconds to one minute. Simply slide the decal off the backing onto your planes surface. While it’s still wet, very carefully position the decal where you want it on the surface to be covered. Then use a soft paper towel to begin moving and absorbing the excess water off the surface of the decal. Patience at this point is important. You will probably notice small wrinkles or air bubbles on the surface. Carefully use your soft paper towel to wipe the decal smooth. This may take several minutes. Even though the decal transfer may look perfect in the beginning sometimes after the decal begins to dry it will appear to shrink and wrinkles will appear where there were none before. Carefully continue to wipe them out.

If you see small particles of the Ink Jet color beginning to disintegrate onto the towel while you are wiping and applying the decal, that means you didn’t spray on enough of the clear lacquer finish. My recommendation is to pull off the decal. Make a new one and try again.

Note: I have been using "Deft Clear Wood finish Gloss" to fix the decal. So far this product works best for me. Don’t hesitate to experiment with other products that you think might work better. When you find a better way please let us all know. This process that I’m using is open to lots of improvement. I’m sure some of you will find better ways of doing this. We’re open to suggestions.

When the decals have dried on the plane you are ready to put a final top coat over the decals. I use "Klass Kote Clear #40." I normally mix it one part A to one part-B (Catalyst.) I allow it to set about 40 minutes (as per the instructions) before adding one part reducer. I usually mix one ounce at a time. The Klass Kote does two things for me. It fuel proofs the plane and protects the decals. I brush on the Klass Kote with a foam brush, usually one side at a time.

Please let me know if you have tried this method and how it worked. I consider this a technique still in the formative stages. I’m still learning and experimenting with better ways to do it so don’t hesitate to share and add your two cents worth to the pot.

Phil Ronney pronney@verizon.net.